V5 First Time Climbing, Understanding Climbing Grades: A Beginner’s Guide to Indoor Ratings and the V Scale for Bouldering Problems For "clean aid climbing" (i. Over the last two months, my bouldering sessions focused on building a pyramid - I did all the V3-V4 and most of the V5s in the centre. For hangboarding, I can hang my bodyweight + 20 lbs for 10s on a 20 mm edge. Based on the videos on my phone, I did my first v5 exactly 2 months after I started but I quite only 5 months into climbing because of COVID. Between my first V5 and V6, I started touching problems that were way beyond my skill level. Understanding Climbing Grades: A Beginner’s Guide to Indoor Ratings and the V Scale for Bouldering Problems I play around with different ideas, because the first solve is just that, the first solve. 10, etc. If I were to do it again, I'd probably start training finger strength systematically when I started to climb v5 consistently. Please share some thoughts in the comments! My climbing gear: https://kit. V4 demands respect. In other words, going from V4 to V5 can take a full year. Making small adjustments can make a HUGE impact on how climbing a specific problem might feel. I am currently climbing in the V5/V6 range in the gym, and I’ve gotten ~7-8 benchmark V4s and a couple V5s, which I’m pretty pleased with since I couldn’t even really start a V4 benchmark when I first got on the moonboard last summer. I ended up at about v6. 5 before I quit. Jul 25, 2019 · If climbing has become a big part of your life, then you might get your first V6 within a year. Practicing it, putting it into my warmup routine, trying to skip holds or simply tightening core more, pressing more with this foot, leaning more here and so on. co/stvedt/climbing-gearmore May 31, 2025 · If you’re climbing V5 consistently, you’re no longer a beginner. First time doing some voice over commentary. Then another 2 years to get consistent to v7 and start to project v8. Started climbing at 30. C3+). ), the world of bouldering (at least in North America) has its own distinctive grading scale: the V-scale. There is a lot of variance, of course. May 31, 2025 · The Foundation: V3-V5 V3 separates the casual gym-goers from people who are actually getting into bouldering. Nov 22, 2021 · How long does it take to climb V5? It can take up to 2 years to do V5s confidently. You need decent finger strength now, and problems start requiring actual sequences rather than just climbing holds in order. Whether you're a seasoned climber or just starting out, understanding this system can help you track progress and select problems that match your Taking your first steps into climbing? Learning to lead? Movement Sunnyvale's climbing classes will help you take on any vertical challenge. Some people will achieve V5 within 8-9 months of their first bouldering session, others will never reach that level. Climbing, like many sports, has its own metrics for measuring difficulty. While rope climbers use the Yosemite Decimal System (5. Body positioning becomes crucial – you can’t just muscle through anymore. g. Bouldering progression depends on several factors Dec 6, 2025 · A survey revealed that 75% of climbers hit a major plateau before V6, with V5 being the most common sticking point. Aid climbing grades take time to stabilize as successive repeats of aid climbing routes can materially reduce the grade. These problems often have multiple crux sections, require good endurance, and punish poor technique. 9, 5. If you're climbing around V4-V5 and feeling stuck, this article outlines the critical elements needed to break through. e. took me 3 years of climbing 3x per week to go from day 1 (I could only do v1 on first day) to v6 consistently across different styles of climbs and rocks. This science-backed training framework deconstructs the grade, giving you a proven 12-week plan for measurable gains. Going from V4 to V5 is challenging because it involves a significant step-up in difficulty. Jul 26, 2019 · V6 If climbing has become a big part of your life, then you might get your first V6 within a year. Stop guessing how to climb V5. Since the last two weeks, I've switched strategies to purely bouldering routes that I don't know are possible for me; mostly V6 or hard V5s. aid climbing equipment is used but only where the equipment is temporary and not permanently hammered into the rock), the most common system is the C-system (e. Whether you're a seasoned climber or just starting out, understanding this system can help you track progress and select problems that match your .
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